Hat Making How-To's - Millinery Lessons from the Edwardian Era 1900's

1912 Illustration

I am quite intimidated by the prospect of hat making but I still have dreams of making a complete Edwardian ensemble from head to toe, inside to out ... except the shoes.  For those with more courage than I have, please check out these Lessons in Millinery from 1902.  Though they presume the reader is experienced, they are great illustrations of style and materials.

 

 

To read the fine print in the lessons, open photos in a new window and click on each to enlarge.

I found these great images at the NYPL Digital Library, an amazing resource.  Like many public libraries, the New York Public Library has suffered severe funding cuts; please consider making a donation if you use their resources.

Happy Sewing and Hat Making!

Dating Vintage Patterns ...Finding Your Era

I am beginning a list of vintage patterns to help myself and others date patterns we find.  Though it is often easy to determine the decade, even to date the pattern within a five years, it is often a challenge to determine the year.  So, as I find patterns or ads, I will add them to the list below to serve as a guide.

Though this list only has a few companies now, I hope to continue to make it more inclusive over time and include:

Advance                                      Marian Martin
Anne Adams                                McCall (McCall's)
Butterick                                      New York
Du Barry                                      Pictorial Review
Excella                                        Standard
Hollywood                                    Simplicity
Ladies' Home Journal                    Vogue

BUTTERICK

Butterick Ad - 1922

 
1910-1919

Butterick Delineator 3967 - Ladies' Coat - 1910
Butterick Delineator 3079 - Ladies' Coat - 1910
Butterick Delinator 4452 - Ladies' Dress - 1911 (February Ad)
Butterick Delinator 4462 - Ladies' Dress - 1911 (February Ad)
Butterick Delinator 4615 - Ladies' Waist - 1911 (May Ad)
Butterick Delinator 4616 - Ladies' Skirt - 1911 (May Ad)
Butterick Delinator 4638 - Ladies' Waist - 1911 (May Ad)
Butterick Delinator 4639 - Ladies' Skirt - 1911 (May Ad)
Butterick Delinator 4847 - Ladies' Waist - 1911 (August Ad)
Butterick Delinator 4848 - Ladies' Skirt - 1911 (August Ad)
Butterick Delinator 4871 - Ladies' Dress - 1911 (August Ad)
Butterick Delineator 5740 - Ladies' Dress - 1912 (November Magazine) 
Butterick Delinator 6114 - Ladies' Waist - 1913 (May Ad)
Butterick Delinator 6115 - Ladies' Skirt - 1913 (May Ad)
Butterick Delinator 6150 - Ladies' Waist - 1913 (May Ad)
Butterick Delinator 6151 - Ladies' Skirt - 1913 (May Ad)

1920-1929
Butterick Deltor 3422 - Ladies' Dress - 1921 (Ladies' Home Journal)
Butterick Deltor 3971 - Ladies' Dress - 1922 (Butterick Ad)
Butterick Deltor 3974 - Ladies' Blouse Jacket - 1922 (Butterick Ad)
Butterick Deltor 4007 - Ladies' Dress - 1922 (Butterick Ad)
Butterick Deltor 5686 - Junior Miss Dress - 1924 (December Ad)
Butterick Deltor 5702 - Ladies' Dress - 1924 (December Ad)
Butterick Deltor 6166 - Ladies's Dress w/Draped Jabot - circa 1925
Butterick Delineator 1778 - Ladies' Afternoon Dress - 1928
Butterick Delineator 1802 - Ladies' Afternoon Dress - 1928

Du Barry 5104 - Ladies' Coat - $0.15 - circa 1940
Du Barry 5268 - Ladies' Suit - $0.15 - circa 1941
Du Barry 5394 - Ladies' Dress - circa 1942
Du Barry 5606 - Ladies' Two-Piece Dress - $0.15 - circa 1943
Du Barry 5960 - Ladies' Pyjamas - circa 1944

McCALL - McCALL's

McCall Ad - 1937

1900-1919
McCall 1220 - Ladies' Skirt - 1907 (January Magazine)
McCall 1903 - Ladies' Jacket - 1908 (February Magazine)
McCall 1912 - Ladies' Skirt - 1908 (February Magazine)
McCall 2403 - Ladies' Jumper Dress - 1909 (February Magazine)
McCall 2558 - Ladies' Dress - 1909 (February Magazine)
McCall 3146 - Ladies' Gown - 1910 (Ad)
McCall 3535 - Ladies' Evening Coat - $0.15 - circa 1910
McCall 4244 - Ladies' Dress - $0.15 - circa 1911 (15 years)
McCall 7560 - Ladies' Skirt - 1917 (June Magazine)
McCall 7779 - Ladies' Middy Sailor Blouse - 1917 (June Magazine)
McCall 7805 - Ladies' Dress - 1917 (June Magazine) 

1920-1929
McCall 2065 - Ladies' Skirt - 1921 (October Ad)
McCall 2365 - Ladies' Dress - 1921 (October Ad)
McCall 2370 - Ladies' Suit-Coat - 1921 (October Ad)
McCall 2365 - Ladies' Dress - 1921 (October Ad)
McCall 2387 - Ladies' Dress - 1921 (November Ad)
McCall 2394 - Ladies' Dress - 1921 (November Ad)
McCall 2825 - Ladies' Gown - 1922 (Ladies' Home Journal - Sept.)
McCall 3664 - Ladies' Dress - circa 1922 "The New McCall Pattern"
McCall 4322 - Ladies' Dress - circa 1922
McCall 4387 - Ladies' Dress - 1926 (Magazine)
McCall 4404 - Ladies' Dress - 1926 (Magazine)
McCall 4443 - Ladies' Two-Piece Frock - 1926 (Magazine)
McCall 4461 - Ladies' Ensemble - 1926 (Magazine)
McCall 5048 - Ladies' Patou Dress - 1927 (Magazine)
McCall 5050 - Ladies' Worth Dress - 1927 (Magazine)
McCall 5069 - Ladies' Premet Dress - 1927 (Magazine)
McCall 5161 - Ladies' Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5170 - Ladies' Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5179 - Ladies' Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5194 - Ladies' Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5344 - Ladies' Evening Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5365 - Ladies' Evening Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5373 - Ladies' Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5411 - Ladies' Worth Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5432 - Ladies' Worth Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5447 - Ladies' Evening Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5546 - Ladies' Apron - $0.25 - 1928 (Color Cover)
McCall 5048 - Ladies' Patou Dress - 1927 (Magazine)
McCall 5050 - Ladies' Worth Dress - 1927 (Magazine)
McCall 5069 - Ladies' Premet Dress - 1927 (Magazine)
McCall 5161 - Ladies' Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5170 - Ladies' Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5179 - Ladies' Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5194 - Ladies' Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5344 - Ladies' Evening Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5365 - Ladies' Evening Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5373 - Ladies' Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5411 - Ladies' Worth Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5432 - Ladies' Worth Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5447 - Ladies' Evening Dress - 1928 (Magazine)
McCall 5461 - Ladies' Evening Dress & Jacket - 1929 (Magazine)
McCall 5524 - Ladies' Dress - 1929 (Magazine)
McCall 5552 - Ladies' Dress - 1929 (Magazine)
McCall 5622 - Ladies' Jacket - 1929 (Magazine)
McCall 5674 - Ladies' Dress - 1929 (Magazine)
McCall 5744 - Ladies' Evening Gown - 1929 (Magazine)
McCall 5757 - Ladies' Drop Waist Dress - 1929 (Magazine)
McCall 5766 - Ladies' Afternoon Dress - 1929 (Magazine)

1930-1939
McCall 6044 Ladies' Trousers, Jacket & Bathing Suit - 1930 (Mag.)
McCall 6069 Ladies' Beach Ensemble - 1930 (Magazine)
McCall 6080 Ladies' Bibbed Skirt for the Beach - 1930 (Magazine)
McCall 7273 - Ladies' Blouse - circa 1933
McCall 8247 - Ladies' Dress - $0.45 - circa 1935
McCall 8377 - Ladies' Dress - 1935 (Magazine)
McCall 8388 - Ladies' Dress - 1935 (Magazine)
McCall 8394 - Ladies' Pleated Dress - 1935 (Magazine)
McCall 8400 - Ladies' Evening Gown - 1935 (Magazine)
McCall 8866 - Ladies' Dress - 1936 (Magazine)
McCall 8870 - Ladies' Evening Gown - 1936 (Magazine)
McCall 8883 - Ladies' Tunic Evening Gown - 19365 (Magazine)
McCall 8904 - Ladies' Dress - 1936 (Magazine)
McCall 8922 - Ladies' Jacket and Skirt - 1936 (Magazine)
McCall 9054 - Ladies' Gown - 1937 (McCall Ad)
McCall 9056 - Ladies' Gown - 1937 (McCall Ad)
McCall 9131 - Ladies' Summer Dress - 1937 (Magazine)
McCall 9160 - Ladies' Blouse - 1937 (June Magazine)
McCall 9162 - Ladies' Play Clothes - 1937 (Magazine)
McCall 9279 - Ladies' Gown - 1937 (June Magazine)

1940-1949 
McCall 3736 - Ladies' Dress and Bolero Pattern - 1940 (Ad)
McCall 3743 - Ladies' Dress and Bolero Pattern - 1940 (Ad)
McCall 3783 - Ladies' Gown Pattern - 1940 (Ad)
McCall 4561 - Junier Misses' Dress - 1942
McCall 4621 - Ladies' Culotte Jumper Dress - 1942
McCall 6089 - Junior Misses' Ranch Pants - $0.45 - 1945
McCall 6288 - Ladies' Blouse - $0.35 - 1945
McCall 6299 - Ladies' Skirt - $0.35 - 1945
McCall 7342 - Ladie's Blouse with Extended Shoulder - $0.35 - 1948
McCall 7243 - Ladies' Skirt - $0.35 - 1948
McCall 7600 - Ladies' Dress - circa 1949
McCall 7760 - Ladies' Suit - circa 1949

McCall's 6834 - Men's Jacket and Swim Trunks - $0.75 - 1963

PICTORIAL REVIEW 

Pictorial Review Ad - 1918

1900-1919
Pictorial Review 1454 - Maid's Apron, Collar and Cuffs 1907
Pictorial Review 4640 - Ladies' Dress 1910
Pictorial Review 6719 - Summer Bathing Suit 1915
Pictorial Review 7015 - Ladies' Dress 1916
Pictorial Review 7604 - Ladies' Dress 1918
Pictorial Review 7639 - Ladies' Dress 1918
Pictorial Review 7737 - Ladies' Skirt 1918
Pictorial Review 7751 - Ladies' Dress 1918
Pictorial Review 1044 - Bathing Suit circa 1919

1920-1929
Pictorial Review 9971 - Ladies' Dress 1922 (Good Housekeeping Ad)
Pictorial Review 1073 - Ladies' Dress 1922 (Good Housekeeping Ad)
Pictorial Review 1107 - Ladies' Blouse 1922 (Good Housekeeping Ad)
Pictorial Review 1216 - Ladies' Gown 1922 (Ladies Home Journal Sept)
Pictorial Review 1463 - Ladies' Dress circa 1923
Pictorial Review 2429 - Ladies' Dress circa 1924
Pictorial Review 2675 - Ladies' Dress circa 1924
Pictorial Review 5633 - Ladies' Evening Gown 1925 ($0.50)
Pictorial Review 5729 - Ladies' Dress Circa 1925
Rictorial Review 5851 - Ladies' Coat Circa 1925

1930-1939
Pictorial Review 4891 - Ladies' Coat - 1930 (November Ad)
Pictorial Review 5226 - Ladies' Coat - 1930 (November Ad)
Pictorial Review 5406 - Ladies' Dress - 1930 (November Ad) (Printed)
Pictorial Review 5420 - Ladies' Dress - 1930 (November Ad)
Pictorial Review 7094 - Ladies' Evening Gown - 1934 (May Magazine)
Pictorial Review 7147 - Ladies' Evening Gown - 1934 (May Magazine)
Pictorial Review 7256 - Ladies' Evening Gown - 1934

If you have patterns you would like to add to help make this list more useful, please list them in a comment or email me.

Thanks and ...

Happy Sewing! 

Those Lovely Edwardian Blouses - In Praise of Mary Brooks Picken and the Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences

As a vintage sewing enthusiasts, I am sure I am not alone in being somewhat intimidated by patterns and sewing techniques of the past. Those wonderful vintage patterns of the early 20th century often assume a knowledge I do not possess.

Enter the wonderful Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences and the brilliant Mary Brooks Pickens, whose instructional booklets are a real find. If you have any other them in your sewing collection, you know what a treasure they are. As they are designed for young women learning the art of sewing, they an excellent tool for the 21st century seamstress and seamster.

I have been lucky enough to find a few of these books at thrift stores and one very lucky eBay auction win. One for my favorites is: Tailored and Lingerie Blouses - Part 2 (I hope to find Part 1 one day). Published in 1921, the designs are from Edwardian Era and include blouses that could have been worn in the 1900's or 1910s. I hope you enjoy these images from the book.

I have started photographing and scanning my copies and I am offering .pdf copies on eBay. If you are interested in the content of these books, rather than in collecting the originals, I hope you will take a look at those I have on offer here. This is a slow process but I hope to get all of them finished and available by the end of summer.

Can't you just imagine wearing one of these beautiful blouses to a garden party or dinner party?

Happy Sewing!

La Belle Epoque, Edwardian and WWI Eras ... Sewing Inspiration from Photos and Portraits Past

Another sleepless night; I started surfing for inspiration and found some great photographs and portraits. Though the details are not always as clear as the ads from these eras, I love seeing the women and fashions against the backdrops of the times.





<-- c. 1902 Princess Irene of Hesse from Ann Lauren's blog.












c. 1902 Winifred Duchess of Portland. The collar of her dress looks as if it was inspired by the Elizabethan Era. I wonder what it was made of. It looks so delicate. -->











<-- c. 1905 Portrait of Maria of Romania. I think this gown looks so romantic and relatively comfortable, considering the era.











c. 1908 Mrs. George Jay Gould with her maid. Even the servants of the day seemed to take care and time with their own hair. How did they find the time? -->








^ c. 1910 Les Createurs de La Mode - 9 Salon de Vente - Doucet from Edwardian Era.







<-- c. 1910 Deux Createurs de La Mode, also from Edwardian Era. Please check this site. There are great images on it.










c. 1910's Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna the Younger. -->
















<-- c. 1913
















c. 1914 Princess Irina of Russia in her Wedding Gown. -->














<-- c. 1915 Quilted Silk on Chiffon Dress from the Library of Congress Bain Collection. This is another terrific resource.















c. 1915 Mrs James McCresap and Bridesmaids from the NYPL Digital Gallery. I wonder why the bride looks so sad. -->





^ c. 1916 Mrs. Edsel Ford and Bridesmaids. Also from the NYPL Digital Gallery.






c. 1916 Dresses by the Dennison Manufacturing Company from the NYPL Digital Gallery. -->





I hope you've found some inspiration too!

If you like this post, please take a look at my other posts on these eras.

If You Love the Fashions of the 1900's and 1910's ... or, Thank You Wilhelmina

I wasn't planning to write an inspiration post tonight but then I found that the wonderful Wilhelmina of Wilhelmina's Antique Fashion has posted a 1900's and 1910's post for me. This was such a sweet and unexpected little gift.

Please check out her blog if you haven't discovered it already. She chooses lovely photos and often includes detailed close-ups, which are great for research. BTW, she covers fashion from 1200 to 1959 so she has a little something for just about everyone intrested in vintage fashion and vintage sewing.

Wedding Gown c. 1907 from Wilhelmina's blog.

Inspired by the photos on her post, I want to share with you and her a few gowns I love from the Antique and Vintage Dress Gallery. They have many museum quality fashions and they include many detailed photos of each outfit.

This is just a little tease:

A Beer of Paris gown from 1905. This is one of two photos of the gown on the original owner. Notice that she is posing on a lion's hide rug. When you see the gown as it is now, notice how the sleeves have been altered and the bodice embellished a bit. Perhaps she had the dress "updated".





This gorgeous gown from 1910 was made for Madame de Bittencourt for a Regency Era costume ball. It's great to see the Edwardian interpretation. Please check out the embroidery and rhinestone embellishments.




<--- A pink assymetrical evening gown with beautiful lace and beading.




This La Femme Chic gown from 1917 is another gown inspired by a past era - "Celtic" or "Medievil." --->

There are many more beautiful fashions on this site, dating from as early as 1750, but I am tired and must get some sleep.

Sweet dreams.