Hat Making How-To's - Millinery Lessons from the Edwardian Era 1900's

1912 Illustration

I am quite intimidated by the prospect of hat making but I still have dreams of making a complete Edwardian ensemble from head to toe, inside to out ... except the shoes.  For those with more courage than I have, please check out these Lessons in Millinery from 1902.  Though they presume the reader is experienced, they are great illustrations of style and materials.

 

 

To read the fine print in the lessons, open photos in a new window and click on each to enlarge.

I found these great images at the NYPL Digital Library, an amazing resource.  Like many public libraries, the New York Public Library has suffered severe funding cuts; please consider making a donation if you use their resources.

Happy Sewing and Hat Making!

Vintage Sewing Tips and a few Great Giveaways ... and a $1.99 OOP Sale

I came across a great little booklet distributed by the Department of Agriculture in 1948, Making a Dress At Home by Margaret Smith.  I want to share the last page with you because it is a nice and simple reminder about paying attention to details.

I found this book at UNT Digital Library, yet another great online resource.

I also found a few great giveaways on some of my favorite blogs:

 2 Pattern Give Away at A Few Threads Loose.

70's Sewing Book Giveaway at Sunny Gal Studio.

My DIY Stella McCartney inspired ring - and a $60 giveaway at Bromeliad.

Fabric Giveaway at Kestrel Finds and Makes.


... And, don't miss the $1.99  sale on OOP Butterick, Kwik Sew, McCall's and Vogue Patterns, which ends tomorrow.

Happy Sewing!

Nothing Last Forever - Great Sewing Blogs No Longer Posting

In an ongoing effort to organize and simplify my life, I decided to go through the blogs I'm following and retire from my list any that have not posted in over a year.  I was sad to see that some inspiring bloggers are not longer blogging.  I understand that life changes and I hope all of these bloggers are moving on and up to better things.

In an effort not to lose the links to some great posts, I am listing the retired blogs here and a few examples of postings.  I do hope they do not disappear into cyberspace.

Charlie's Sewing Vintage

Cici Speaks

Designer on a Budget

 Inspired by Anthropologie Corsage Tutorial

Five Guineas - Vintage Sewing

Vintage Poppies Blouse
1950's Economy Design E47

                with

Some Notes on Pattern Alterations




Houston Crafter - Not a lot of post but some cute blogs on sewing for children.

Romantic History Historical Clothing

International Blogs and Websites

Patterns and Online Resources

and she is still blogging on Romantic History

Sew Vintage Patterns (If You Can't Find It, Make It!)

Sewing Success sewing Blog

The Costume Blog

                                             Purple Renaissance Bride's Maid Gown

The Dart and the Hem

The Historical Sewing Blog

1800 White Gauze Gown

The Pin Curl Diaries

1940s Overalls - Simplicity 3322







The Vintage Traveler - Old Blog
New blog can be found here.

Very Prairie - A Fashion Sewing Blog

Wardrobe Refashion
The founder of this blog has her own blog:  Nikki Shell 

Does anyone know where "My Renaissance, Georgian, Colonial and Victorian Garb" has gone?  Its address use to be: http://www.noblegarb.com.

Happy Sewing!

Hand-Finishing Your Dress Tutorial ... HEARTH Collection at Cornell

The HEARTH Collection at Cornell University is a wonderful online resource for vintage sewing, cooking, crafting and all things Home Economics.  If you haven't discovered it, I hope you will check it out.

Though I was researching as earlier era, I came across this bulletin from 1948, Hand Finishing Your Dress.  I read through the article and loved how much basic information and instruction it imparted in only four pages.  So, here it is.

Happy Sewing!

Getting the Right Fit with Contemporary and Vintage Patterns

I decided to organize some of the great tutorials I've found on using and altering vintage patterns for easy access and thought I would share them with you. There are so many terrific blogs and tutorials. This is not all that are available but will serve as a bit of a cheat sheet for me. This way, hopefully, I wont have to stop the middle of sewing and spend a half hour trying to find the answer online. I can just take five minutes and look it up on my own blog ... Well, that's the plan.

eHow has a number of good articles on sewing, these are for working with patterns:
How To Alter Sewing Patterns
How to Make a Paper Sewing Pattern

Sewing Vintage: Three Essential Alterations for Vintage Patterns - This tutorial focuses on 40's and 50's patterns but has tips which can be useful for other eras as well. I believe the author is Gertie. She also gives one or two tips for updating a vintage pattern.

This is a short but valuable tutorial from the American Duchess: Sizing Up Vintage Patterns for Modern Wear.

I like this article on It's Sew Karren's site, which "How to Take Sewing Measurements and Pattern Fitting Measurements." It includes a conversion table for fabric measurements and a simple description of the measurements needed to determine your correct pattern size, whether contemporary or vintage.

Gertie wrote a an article for Burda Style, Marking Unprinted Patterns with a photographic tutorial on her blog.

"Drafting Patterns for Women's Pants" is a tutorial on Leena's website. This site's tuturorials are for use with PatternMaker Drafting Software but some of the instructions and tips are applicable to hand drafting.

I've posted lists of tutorials before; here are links to my past postings.

How to Make a Sloper ... Vintage Sewing - It includes more links to tutorials on taking measurements, working with and making patterns.

More on Slopers and Muslins
Sewing Tutorials ... Pattern Alterations, Techniques, Fabric, etc
Making Time for Sewing - Stretch Knit and Bias Tape Tutorials
A few Tutorials on Piping

Please feel free to suggest other tutorials you think might help me and the rest of the sewing blogger community.

Happy Sewing!

Sewing Inspiration - Flappers and a Little Reality Check ... the 1920's

I think you've seen from past posts that I love the fashion of the late Edwardian and Bell Epoque eras. However, I also know that my sewing skills are not yet up to some of the intricacies these fashions requires. And, I'm not sure I'm ready to wear a corset yet. :) Fast forwarding a few years, I land in the 1920's, time of the flapper, of simpler silhouettes, higher hemlines, greater freedom of movement and the "One Hour Dress."

I'm not sure I'll ever make a wearable dress in one hour, but I do believe that I can make something lovely inspired by this era given a few more hours. Here is one look I would love recreate.

Clara Bow in the 1920's - Check out the great boots.

I'm sure you can find this photo all over the net but I happened to find it on the San Francisco Podcast, Sparkle Tack.

Anna Pavlova in a Garden in the 1920's.

Girls just want to have fun! I love the variations in the details, fabrics and necklines. And, check out the hats. The photo comes from a post on Flatrock.org with the unfortunate title: "Condemned to Be Virgins: The 2,000,000 Women Robbed by the War." I like mine better.

Pictorial Review from Summer 1925. These styles are so simple and sleek with small details and wonderful fabrics. I don't think these are "One Hour" dresses but I could see myself making one in three or four hours. I think I have a pattern or two similar to these. I'll take a look and post photos when I find them.

If you are tempted to try the 'One Hour Dress", please check out the SewMarm's video tutorial. Here is the link to part one of the six part tutorial.

You should also look at Dragonfly Formals' take on the one hour dress. She has three examples which show how you can put your personal touch on the dress. Her use of beads really lift the designs and seem to fit perfectly with the era.

Ok, before signing off, I just had to indulge in a little eye candy:

This beautiful dress has the simple lines I've been talking about but the beautiful beadwork makes it a bit magical. I found this photo on a blog called 100 Years of Fashion.

Here's one more beauty, this one by Norman Hartnell (1924). It's beadwork and embroidery have an Asian influence. This may be more of an 100 Hour Dress.

Have you sewn anything of or inspired by this era. I would love to see you creations and hear your adventures. Feel free to send your links and photos.

Happy Sewing!

La Belle Epoque and Edwardian Era - The Luna Moth Dress by Dreamstress

For those who love these eras and who are not afraid to sew inspired gowns and outfits, please see The Dreamstress. I mentioned her dress in my last post on this era but I think she deserves her own post.


Not only has she created a beautiful gown, but she has posted her diary of its creation from inspiration to completion ... well, almost done.

Posts include (this is not the complete list):
Initial Inspiration
Initial Design Sketch
Draping the Fabric and the Toile
Under Support and Construction
The Beading
Almost Done



I do not know Leihomi Oakes but I love her blog and I am really grateful that she takes the time to outline the process. She also has great research links and photos of period gowns.

I'll definitely be using this diary as an inspiration and guide when I get the courage to tackle this era.

If you like this post, please take a look at my other posts on these eras.

Happy Sewing!

Giveaways in Blogland ... Check these out!

I just found out a won my first giveaway from Lisette at What Would Nancy Drew Wear? It's such a great feeling and I'm really looking forward to receiving the two remnant pieces. I'm planning to use them to make accent pipining.

So, in the spirit of passing on the good fortune, here are some giveaways you should check out:

Long & Winding Bobbin - Vintage Patterns Giveaway
Miss Dandy - $25.00 gift certificate Giveaway
Fireflies & Jelly Beans - Jewelry Giveaway

Good Luck!

P.S. I know there are lots of great tutorials in cyberspace but I want to share three on piping that I like:

How to Make Your Own Piping from Warehouse Fabrics
Sewing 101: Piping from Design Sponge
How to Sew Piping Into Your Bag from U*Handbag

Making Time for Sewing - Stretch Knit and Bias Tape Tutorials

My organizing is taking longer than I thought, though I have managed to organize my notions. That was a real treat. I had no idea how much I have. At this point, the only things I may need to buy for my stretch knit top are needles.

It looks like I will not be ready to sew until next weekend, so I thought I'd take a little time to search out tutorials, which may be useful to me in making my stretch knit top. I am treating myself as a beginner since it has been so long since I have made anything. Through my search, my respect for the online sewing community has expanded enormously. I am so grateful to the many seamstresses and home sewers who are sharing their knowledge.

Here are the tutorials I found:

A Primer on Sewing Knits from Threads Magazine

Sewing with Knits from Patterns by Figgy's

From TeachSew.com -
Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Cutting out a Pattern Using Knit Fabric
Shoulder Seams
Knit Neckline - Sewing "In-the-Round"
Inserting Arms using Knit Fabrics
Finishing Knit Top

Tips for Working with Knits & Mock-Coverstitch Tutorial from Sew, Mama Sew!

Knit Neckline from The Sewing Divas

How to Make Bias Tape from Collette Patterns

From Amanda's Adventures in Sewing
Bias Seam Tutorial
Bias Tape Covered Seam Tutorial
Bias Tape Finish for Necklines and Armholes

Sew Your Own Ribbing Fabric from The Sewing Divas

I hope you find these helpful too. And, please stop by these sites and blogs to see what they are up to now.

Happy Sewing!

More on Slopers ... Fitted Garments ... DARTS

I am DETERMINED to sew this summer and frustrated that my work schedule is getting in the way ... but, a girl's gotta make a living.

I am consoling myself by looking through the great sewing blogs and websites when I have ten or fifteen minutes to learn and re-learn as much as I can before I begin. During today's ten minutes I found a guest posting at Sew Mama Sew by Sarai Mitnick of Collette Patterns . The topic: Darts.

Sarai gives a very simple but vauluable tutorial on darts, which can be applied to your sloper, muslin, or projects you are making or altering. The illustrations are very helpful and easy to understand.

I am so sew happy I finally entered the world of the blog. I am learning so much and I am continually inspired by these creative people who are willing to share their knowledge.

Happy Sewing!

Sewing Tutorials Online ... Pattern Alterations, Techniques, Fabric, etc.

Sew Tutorials is a great resource and will save you from spending too much time searching the web for how to sites. The last entry on this blog was March 11, 2009, which is unfortunate. However, the blog is still up and contains organized links to many tutorials on the web.

Here are some of the topics and links:

General Sewing
Pattern Alterations
Fabrics - How to Determine - Use - Prepare
Use of Special Sewing Feet
Interfacing
Using Serger and Coverstitch
Zippers
Buttons - Buttonholes - Button Loops

Sense & Sensibility Patterns has a very good tutorial as well titled "How to Resize a Pattern."

Happy Sewing!

More on Slopers and Muslins

This is just a quick note to let you know about another link I found on slopers. This on is on the Threads Magazine webiste. The article is called "Drape a Skirt Sloper." This is a very clear and detailed tutorial.

Another tutorial on this site, which looks invaluable for creating a good custom fit is "Get the Right Armhole, Fit the Bodice." Not only does it offer good tips on fitting for your body type - with illustrations, it also walks you through applying these tips to making a well-fitting bodice muslin.

I hope these help.

Happy Sewing!

How to Make a Sloper ... Vintage Sewing

Last night was a long one for me. Since sleep was allusive, I decided to check out some of the sewing blogs I like and I found a great entry on Sew Craftful's blog titled "How to Make a Sloper." Callie, who is Sew Craftful, offers a lot of great advice and instructions.

I agree with Callie that making a sloper is essential for getting a great fit with vintage patterns. However, I also believe this holds true for sewing with contemporary patterns as well. Though a time consuming project, initially, I believe it is worth it. I'm not sure I will make a sloper as my first project, but I will make it one of my early projects ... maybe third or fourth. The only reason for waiting is that I believe my first two or three projects may be simpler garments then the sloper will be.

Here are some additional entries on the Sew Craftful site, which should be helpful to the beginning or returning sewer/seamstress:

How to Take Body Measurements
How to Take Measurements Hints and Suggestions
How to Make a Basic Pattern
How to Make a Pattern from an Original Garment
How to Pick a Starter Vintage Sewing Pattern -- These guidelines may be helpful those who want to start with a contemporary pattern as well.
How to Compare a Basic to a Commercial Pattern
The Benefits of Working with a Muslin Mock Up or Test Pattern