La Belle Epoque and Edwardian Eras ... Sewing Inspiration from 1910

First, a little education and edification; then, a bit of indulgence.

Edwardian Era:  Strictly speaking, this is the period during the reign of King Edward VII of the United Kingdom from 1901 to 1910.   I don't think I am alone in thinking of this period as extending into the second decade of the 20th century.  For me the sinking of the Titanic on April 15, 1912 puts paid to the era.  It seemed the harbinger of great changes ... but that is just my opinion.

Le Belle Epoque:  "A period of high artistic or cultural development," as define by Merriam-Webster, it began in 1890  and continued through 1914.  A time of relative peace and great industrial strides, many consider it a "Golden Age" and the last moments of innocence before the onslaught of World War I and the "modern age."

I love this period when almost anything seemed possible.  As I was searching for inspiration, I somehow settled on 1910, and stayed.

Poiret's "Oriental" Influenced Fashion

Not only do I love the wonderful draping and the range of dress styles, the hats are a sight to behold.  And speaking of hats ...

Royal Ascot 1910

The hats! The coats!

The dapper gent!

Princess Louise with her daughters, Princesses Maud and Alexandra

Three Ladies courtesy of La Costumeuse.

I love this photo because it so clearly shows how strictly fashion was dictated by age.

Far left, a girl before her 16th birthday.

Far right, a young woman between 16 and 21 years-old.

Center, a woman over 21 and, most likely, married.

What I find most interesting is how the clothes on the younger women seem to foreshadow the fashions of the coming years.

Thank you, Jennifer of Ohio is My Dwelling Place, for letting me know who these lovely ladies were.

1910 definitely seemed to be a time when fashion - and women - were on the brink of change.

Natalina "Lina" Cavalier

Less extreme than the silhouettes of the previous decade, her gown, posted on Au Feminin still emphasizes hourglass figure and perfect posture of the time.  I love the geometric pattern on the bodice and sleeves.  I wonder if it was done with fabric or beads ... or a combination.

Lina Cavalieri was a renowned opera singer in her day and Pretty Petals wrote a lovely post about her life with some wonderful photos.

Actress Kitty Gordon's evening gown is a wonderful example of the transition from old style to new, with touches of both.  I love the earl beading.  Dame Doudicca posted this photo and a nice description of this era in women's fashion.

This lady of 1910 seems so much more relaxed than the more tightly corseted ladies.  The dress looks fun and I love the hat!  I have trouble believing she's wearing an S-curve corset.  She looks too relaxed.

Another photo found on Les Garconnettes.

Prince (and psychoanalyst) Marie Bonapaparte

I love the sleeve treatment and tiara.  Both seem to be a nod to one of her new homes, Greece.  From her posture, I'm sure her corset was more than tight enough.













I had to include some bridal wear in this post. This is Lady Violet Manner, whose veil is absolutely beautiful brocaded with white velvet.  Apparently she had her and her husbands family crests embroidered on them ... the day before the ceremony.  I wish I had a better view of the dress, which was covered in lace. 

This photo was published in "Every Woman's Encyclopaedia" which can be found at Chest of Books.  You can read a description of this an other gowns of the time as well.

Here is another wedding gown from 1910 in satin and lace. I am not a fan of the square train that was so popular at the time but I still love the simplicity of this dress.

 Here is a detail of the bodice and the shawl sleeves.

Thanks to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, we have many wonderful examples of fashion through the ages.  I'll only include a couple in this post.

Gown by the Mrs. Osborn Company

This Gown is as beautiful going as coming.

French Gown 1909-1911

I'm not sure this gown was a product of 1910 but, as the Met lists it as being from the years 1909-1911, I thought I'd sneek it in.

It looks as if it may have been inspired  by both Greek and  Roman art.

The peacock theme is almost over the
top but I don't care.  Th combination of charcoal and turquoise is one of my favorites.  The two peacocks are down in such detail and seems both elegant and fun.

This is not in the Met's collection and it is not vintage.  It is a recreation of the 1910 pattern found in "Patterns of Fashion 2."  I think this is a wonderful and inspiring dress. The dressmaker's attention to detail in the beadwork admirable.  The entire post can be found at the Costume blog.

Well, I'm worn out but inspired.  What inspires you?

Happy Sewing!

Okay, I couldn't resist a p.s. because when I found this photo, it just made me smile.  What were they talking about?  What were they eating?  How did they make those wonderful bows in their hair?

Three Girls on Street by Hine Levis - 1910

Nothing Lasts Forever ... Somes blogs that have moved on.

It is sad to see a good blog go but I will take it as an opportunity to discover other great blogs. A couple have moved and some have stopped blogging. I hope they are just too busy enjoying life to post.

Holly Dai - Snowflake Costume

Art Deco - Celebrating the Jazz Age
  

Bijou Beaute seems to be on hiatus.

Create, Inspire, Be True to Your Art...

No No's Sew Hip Blog

Cupcake Goddess

She's not gone; she's just moved to A Fashionable Stitch. 

Holly Dai - Vintage or Sew

Sewing and Burlesque

Philigry - Turn a Coat Into a Bag

Nudeedudee

Vintage inspired sewing, vintage patterns and travels

Philigry

Home Sewing and Cooking

Puppydog Tails has just disappeared.

Sew a Beginner

Sewing for real life

Sewnista in the Making

Sewing and knitting

McCall's 3101

Sew Me Some Love has moved to Sew In Between. 

Swing Sewing
Vintage Sewing 

The Dreamstress has moved here.

When Ladies Dressed

Vintage Sewing

When Ladies Dressed - Gown from McCall's 3101

Happy Sewing!

In Praise of Other Blogs - My Two Butterflies

I've found another wonderful blog ... my two butterflies by Jennifer Brasher.  She refashions, upcycles and, generally, seems to enjoy life.  Here are links to some of her posts, in case you ever need a little inspiration:

Christmas Wreath with Fabric Flowers

Her tutorial is simple and clear.

Red and Pink Floral Top

 Embellished Cut Out Pullover 

Pullover with Fabric Flower Detail Inspired by Anthropologie

Also check out her:

Anthropologie Inspired Cardigan Refashion 

Boden Inspired Cardigan Refashion

Great Tutorials

30 Days for 30 Dollars




Okay, you get the point.

Thanks for your great ideas and blogging Jennifer.

Happy Sewing!

Nothing Last Forever - Great Sewing Blogs No Longer Posting

In an ongoing effort to organize and simplify my life, I decided to go through the blogs I'm following and retire from my list any that have not posted in over a year.  I was sad to see that some inspiring bloggers are not longer blogging.  I understand that life changes and I hope all of these bloggers are moving on and up to better things.

In an effort not to lose the links to some great posts, I am listing the retired blogs here and a few examples of postings.  I do hope they do not disappear into cyberspace.

Charlie's Sewing Vintage

Cici Speaks

Designer on a Budget

 Inspired by Anthropologie Corsage Tutorial

Five Guineas - Vintage Sewing

Vintage Poppies Blouse
1950's Economy Design E47

                with

Some Notes on Pattern Alterations




Houston Crafter - Not a lot of post but some cute blogs on sewing for children.

Romantic History Historical Clothing

International Blogs and Websites

Patterns and Online Resources

and she is still blogging on Romantic History

Sew Vintage Patterns (If You Can't Find It, Make It!)

Sewing Success sewing Blog

The Costume Blog

                                             Purple Renaissance Bride's Maid Gown

The Dart and the Hem

The Historical Sewing Blog

1800 White Gauze Gown

The Pin Curl Diaries

1940s Overalls - Simplicity 3322







The Vintage Traveler - Old Blog
New blog can be found here.

Very Prairie - A Fashion Sewing Blog

Wardrobe Refashion
The founder of this blog has her own blog:  Nikki Shell 

Does anyone know where "My Renaissance, Georgian, Colonial and Victorian Garb" has gone?  Its address use to be: http://www.noblegarb.com.

Happy Sewing!

La Belle Epoque, Edwardian and WWI Eras ... Sewing Inspiration from Photos and Portraits Past

Another sleepless night; I started surfing for inspiration and found some great photographs and portraits. Though the details are not always as clear as the ads from these eras, I love seeing the women and fashions against the backdrops of the times.





<-- c. 1902 Princess Irene of Hesse from Ann Lauren's blog.












c. 1902 Winifred Duchess of Portland. The collar of her dress looks as if it was inspired by the Elizabethan Era. I wonder what it was made of. It looks so delicate. -->











<-- c. 1905 Portrait of Maria of Romania. I think this gown looks so romantic and relatively comfortable, considering the era.











c. 1908 Mrs. George Jay Gould with her maid. Even the servants of the day seemed to take care and time with their own hair. How did they find the time? -->








^ c. 1910 Les Createurs de La Mode - 9 Salon de Vente - Doucet from Edwardian Era.







<-- c. 1910 Deux Createurs de La Mode, also from Edwardian Era. Please check this site. There are great images on it.










c. 1910's Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna the Younger. -->
















<-- c. 1913
















c. 1914 Princess Irina of Russia in her Wedding Gown. -->














<-- c. 1915 Quilted Silk on Chiffon Dress from the Library of Congress Bain Collection. This is another terrific resource.















c. 1915 Mrs James McCresap and Bridesmaids from the NYPL Digital Gallery. I wonder why the bride looks so sad. -->





^ c. 1916 Mrs. Edsel Ford and Bridesmaids. Also from the NYPL Digital Gallery.






c. 1916 Dresses by the Dennison Manufacturing Company from the NYPL Digital Gallery. -->





I hope you've found some inspiration too!

If you like this post, please take a look at my other posts on these eras.

I Won a Giveaway ... Yeah ... I think.

I won my second giveaway in one year! Yes, the pattern and fabric are just as they appear in the photo. Eileen at Eileen Fashions did not misrepresent the giveaway in any way. BTW, please check out her blog if you are not familiar with it. So, why am I so happy with this "ugly" win? Well, the fabric is growing on me (it reminds me of a lazy boy one of my uncles had) and, as the pattern is not my size, it gives me the opportunity to practice my pattern alterations and to practice working with patterned - plaid - fabrics. Worst case scenario ... I hate it. Best case scenario ... I become a much better seamstress and get a head start on my Halloween Costume. Frankly, I think this is a no lose situation. Thanks Eileen. I am Happy!

Getting the Right Fit with Contemporary and Vintage Patterns

I decided to organize some of the great tutorials I've found on using and altering vintage patterns for easy access and thought I would share them with you. There are so many terrific blogs and tutorials. This is not all that are available but will serve as a bit of a cheat sheet for me. This way, hopefully, I wont have to stop the middle of sewing and spend a half hour trying to find the answer online. I can just take five minutes and look it up on my own blog ... Well, that's the plan.

eHow has a number of good articles on sewing, these are for working with patterns:
How To Alter Sewing Patterns
How to Make a Paper Sewing Pattern

Sewing Vintage: Three Essential Alterations for Vintage Patterns - This tutorial focuses on 40's and 50's patterns but has tips which can be useful for other eras as well. I believe the author is Gertie. She also gives one or two tips for updating a vintage pattern.

This is a short but valuable tutorial from the American Duchess: Sizing Up Vintage Patterns for Modern Wear.

I like this article on It's Sew Karren's site, which "How to Take Sewing Measurements and Pattern Fitting Measurements." It includes a conversion table for fabric measurements and a simple description of the measurements needed to determine your correct pattern size, whether contemporary or vintage.

Gertie wrote a an article for Burda Style, Marking Unprinted Patterns with a photographic tutorial on her blog.

"Drafting Patterns for Women's Pants" is a tutorial on Leena's website. This site's tuturorials are for use with PatternMaker Drafting Software but some of the instructions and tips are applicable to hand drafting.

I've posted lists of tutorials before; here are links to my past postings.

How to Make a Sloper ... Vintage Sewing - It includes more links to tutorials on taking measurements, working with and making patterns.

More on Slopers and Muslins
Sewing Tutorials ... Pattern Alterations, Techniques, Fabric, etc
Making Time for Sewing - Stretch Knit and Bias Tape Tutorials
A few Tutorials on Piping

Please feel free to suggest other tutorials you think might help me and the rest of the sewing blogger community.

Happy Sewing!

La Belle Epoque and Edwardian Era - The Luna Moth Dress by Dreamstress

For those who love these eras and who are not afraid to sew inspired gowns and outfits, please see The Dreamstress. I mentioned her dress in my last post on this era but I think she deserves her own post.


Not only has she created a beautiful gown, but she has posted her diary of its creation from inspiration to completion ... well, almost done.

Posts include (this is not the complete list):
Initial Inspiration
Initial Design Sketch
Draping the Fabric and the Toile
Under Support and Construction
The Beading
Almost Done



I do not know Leihomi Oakes but I love her blog and I am really grateful that she takes the time to outline the process. She also has great research links and photos of period gowns.

I'll definitely be using this diary as an inspiration and guide when I get the courage to tackle this era.

If you like this post, please take a look at my other posts on these eras.

Happy Sewing!

Giveaways in Blogland ... Check these out!

I just found out a won my first giveaway from Lisette at What Would Nancy Drew Wear? It's such a great feeling and I'm really looking forward to receiving the two remnant pieces. I'm planning to use them to make accent pipining.

So, in the spirit of passing on the good fortune, here are some giveaways you should check out:

Long & Winding Bobbin - Vintage Patterns Giveaway
Miss Dandy - $25.00 gift certificate Giveaway
Fireflies & Jelly Beans - Jewelry Giveaway

Good Luck!

P.S. I know there are lots of great tutorials in cyberspace but I want to share three on piping that I like:

How to Make Your Own Piping from Warehouse Fabrics
Sewing 101: Piping from Design Sponge
How to Sew Piping Into Your Bag from U*Handbag

Edwardian Era and La Belle Epoque - Sewing Inspiration

Though I'm a long way from tackling an outfit from this wonderful era, it is hot and rainy today and I need a little inspiration. So off I go into cysperspace, circa 1910's ...

Beaded Cotton Gauze Dress, c. 1914 - 1916. This was posted at the Past Perfect Vintage Blog. As I was searching for inspiration, I saw that this post from 2008, which happened to be posted on the day after a rainy day.

Gowns of Queen Maud of Norway, c. 1910 - 1913.

Dr. Charlotte Hawkins Brown on her wedding day, 1912. I found this photo and a brief bio of this wonderful woman on the Mulatto Diaries blog.

Olga Nicolaevna Romanov, c. 1913. -->

Tea Gown, c. 1910's from The Great Basin Costume Society blog.

A 1912 Ball Gown also shown on The Great Basin Costume Society blog.

Irene Castle in a Tea Gown, c. 1914.

The Tunic Dress, c. 1912. You can see more photos and a detailed description of this dress at the FIDM Museum Blog.

<-- Worth Gown, c. 1907 - 1910.

The wonderful Dreamstress posted these on her blog from the Brooklyn Museum Collection. Click on the link to see the other great photos she has posted.

Worth Gown, c. 1910.-->

Actually, the Dreamstress is the perfect conclusion to my search for inspiration on a rainy day. If you love this era, you should check out the making of her Luna Moth Gown, inspired by this era.

I hope you've enjoyed this little stroll into vintage wonderland. These are only a handful of the beautiful fashions from this era. I do feel inspired and have set a new goal for myself:

To sew a gown inspired by this era to wear on New Year's Eve 2011.

That gives me a little less than a year-and-a-half to develop the skills to make the gown and to develop enough socials skills to be invited to the kind of party where I can wear it. (hehehe)

For now, it's time to back up my computer and do some house work.

I'd love to see your inspiration photos or your sewing projects.

Happy Sewing!